Hiking Lake McArthur from Lake O’Hara during larch season without a bus reservation. Firsthand trail details, shuttle info, and tips.
We didn’t get a Lake O’Hara bus reservation, so the whole day started with an 11 km walk up the access road.
By the time we reached Lake O’Hara we were already a few hours into the day and didn’t want anything overly demanding. That’s where the Lake McArthur hike ended up being the perfect choice. It’s a relatively short trail once you’re at the lake, but it still delivers everything people come here for in late September: golden larches, alpine lakes, and postcard perfect views.
We did it on September 24th, right in the middle of larch season, and it ended up being one of the best days we’ve had in the mountains.
Trail Stats
2.5 to 3.5 Hours
Including road walk: 7 to 9 Hours
7.4 km/4.6 miles
Including road walk: 29.4 km/18.2 miles
371 m/1217 ft
Including road walk: 771 m/2529 ft
Medium Difficulty
Including road walk: High Endurance
July to Early October
Trailhead: Le Relais Day Shelter, Lake O’Hara, Yoho National Park. At this shelter you can warm up, find trail information, and even buy a hot drink or snack (cash only).
Parking: Free at the Lake O’Hara parking lot off the Trans-Canada Highway near Field, BC
Shuttle to Lake O’Hara Lakeshore: Reservations only when going up. Walking the road is the only way in without a reservation. Return shuttle from the lake is $15 cash, first come first served, no guarantee of space. The road is closed to personal vehicles and bikes but open to hikers.
Park Pass: Required. Day pass is around $12 per adult. Should be purchased in advance online then printed, or you can get one at the Banff Visitor Center or a roadside kiosk if open.
Getting There
The Lake O’Hara parking lot is located in Yoho National Park along the Trans-Canada Highway, about 15 minutes west of Lake Louise.
Most visitors access Lake O’Hara using the famous shuttle bus, which requires booking well in advance and winning a lottery. If you don’t secure a reservation, the alternative is walking the 11 km access road.
That’s exactly what we did.
Is it worth walking the road to Lake O’Hara?
It depends entirely on what you do when you get there. The road adds 22 km to your day before you’ve even started a trail, so choosing the right hike matters. The Lake McArthur and Big Larches Loop is the right hike for this situation. At roughly 7.5 km with around 350 m of elevation gain, it’s substantial but not strenuous, and the larch scenery starts almost immediately after you leave the lake. You get a full, rewarding mountain day without excessive difficulty.
The elevation gain is minimal and gradual the entire road, making it physically manageable for most people.
About 2.5 hours later we finally reached Lake O’Hara.
Before arriving at the lake itself, we passed the Lake O’Hara campground. The campground immediately stood out because of how clean and well-maintained it was. Potable water was available, the outhouses were clean, and there was even toilet paper stocked inside.
After recently spending time camping at Assiniboine, where some outhouses near the campground lacked toilet paper and hand sanitizer, I definitely appreciated the difference.
What Is Lake O’Hara Like?
The lake stops you immediately. The water is a deep vivid teal, the kind you only get from glacial melt, surrounded by mountains and glaciers. We sat on a bench by the water and had a snack before starting the trail. Even though it’s one of the most famous destinations in the Canadian Rockies, it felt calm and peaceful when we arrived.
After taking in the scenery, it was finally time to start hiking toward Lake McArthur.
Big Larches Loop To Lake McArthur
The circuit departs from the Le Relais Day Shelter and heads southwest through forest, and within a short distance the larch trees appear.
Several trails connect and rejoin each other, creating a figure-eight style network where you can take slightly different routes to and from Lake McArthur.
We chose the right-hand route first.
We were there on September 24th and the larch colour was at full peak. Sharp golden yellow against dark green spruce, set against grey limestone peaks and blue sky with cloud moving through. It’s the kind of scenery that makes you stop walking every few minutes to just admire it.
Compared to more famous larch hikes in the Rockies this one felt noticeably quieter. You still get the colour, without the same level of crowds. If you’re looking for another quieter larch hike nearby, Mt Fairview & Saddleback Pass is worth adding to your list.
Schaffer Lake
Before reaching Lake McArthur, the trail passes Schaffer Lake.
Unlike many lakes in the Rockies, Schaffer Lake isn’t glacially coloured. Instead, the water appeared darker and more natural, reflecting the surrounding mountains and forest.
Golden larches surrounded portions of the shoreline, and the mountain backdrop made it feel like a postcard. It’s the kind of view many hikers would happily make their destination if it existed anywhere else.
Is Lake McArthur Worth the Hike?
Absolutely.
After leaving Schaffer Lake, the trail gained a bit more elevation before eventually reaching Lake McArthur.
The first thing I noticed was how large the lake looked.
Unlike the bright turquoise colour many people associate with Rocky Mountain lakes, Lake McArthur appeared a deep blue, almost navy in some areas. I suspect its depth plays a role in that darker colour.
What made the experience even better was the lack of people. When we arrived, nobody else was there.
We spent some time relaxing by the water, taking photos, and simply enjoying the perfect autumn view before eventually starting the journey back.
Unlike places such as Larch Valley, which can become extremely busy during peak season, Lake McArthur felt surprisingly peaceful throughout the day.
Returning Through the Big Larches Trail
The circuit descends via the Big Larch Trail through alpine meadows near Schaffer Lake, so you’re seeing different scenery on the way back rather than retracing your steps. Both directions are scenic. Near the end we accidentally wandered off trail onto a rocky scramble above Lake O’Hara, not intentional and not something I’d recommend, but we did get an unexpected aerial view of the lake before finding our way back.
Back at the lakeshore we spent about twenty minutes sitting on a rock watching the afternoon light on the water. Then we headed to the bus area around 6pm and lined up for the return shuttle. We got on without any issue, but space is not guaranteed. People line up before departure time and it’s cash only at $15 per person each way. Check the Parks Canada Lake O’Hara page for current shuttle departure times.
Tips
Start early if you’re planning to walk the Lake O’Hara access road. The extra distance adds a significant amount of time to the day.
Bring cash for the return bus. It’s $15 per person each way and cash only. Line up before departure time and don’t count on getting a seat as space is not guaranteed.
Larch season at Lake O’Hara peaks mid to late September. September 24th was perfect for us. Check recent trip reports before you go as timing shifts slightly year to year.
Dress in layers. We experienced sunshine, wind, and cooler temperatures throughout the day.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you hike at Lake O’Hara without a bus reservation?
Yes, but the bus is not an option going up without a reservation. The only way in is to walk the 11 km gravel road, which takes about two and a half hours at a comfortable pace. Choosing a shorter trail like the Lake McArthur and Big Larches Loop makes the overall day manageable without overdoing it.
How hard is the Lake McArthur hike?
The Lake McArthur trail itself is considered moderate, with roughly 300 metres of elevation gain. If you walk the Lake O’Hara access road instead of taking the shuttle, the day becomes significantly longer and more physically demanding.
How long is the Lake McArthur hike?
The Lake McArthur and Big Larches Loop circuit is approximately 7.4 to 8 km with around 310 to 371 m of elevation gain, typically taking two and a half to three and a half hours. If you’re walking the road in and out, total distance for the day is closer to 19 to 20 km. Allow a full 8 to 10 hours.
When is larch season at Lake O’Hara and Lake McArthur?
Larch season at Lake O’Hara peaks mid to late September. September 24th was perfect for us. For more larch hikes across the Canadian Rockies, see our full larch hike page.
Timing shifts slightly year to year so check recent trip reports in early September to get a sense of where things are at. I usually check the latest photos on AllTrails before going on any hike.
